LSR 2-1 Shovelhead

Other customers demand a "B" style because they "know it's better because they had a "B-Style" on their last bike and it kicked ass!" Everyone has his priorities and the bike set-ups are so different that we offer both styles "B" and "C" as well as 1 3/4" and 2" in both Turn Outs and Slash Cuts for most models. Decisions, decisions, decisions! Pictured above is an LSR 2-1, C Style, Turn Out, 1 3/4", part number 00-1008 for a Shovelhead.

New Dual O2 Meters

Shovels really only need the single air fuel ratio meter (see page bottom). All our systems come with a front O2 port and have for the last 20 years. We can put a second O2 port on at no charge if you want to run one of these. You will have buy two of our narrowband high temperature Bosch O2 sensors. Call if you want this option.

For EFi sequential injection our new RSR Dual Air Fuel Gauge displays the fuel mixture in both the front and rear cylinders separately. The gauge is housed in a hard anodized round enclosure in a standard 2" format with a 2.250" bezel, center back mount, with a 5/16" x 18 stainless socket head cap screw. The gauge will show fuel ratios from 17:1 to 12.0:1 (or richer). The gauge is visible in daylight and automatically dims for nighttime operation.

Scale is, left to right, lean to rich: three greens, three yellows, two orange and two red l.e.d.s.

The white arrow indicates the maximum power mixture, the second orange light, which is 13.2:1. Transitory enrichments should not, if the engine is warm (>200F Oil temp), go past the first red light. Readings at the far right side of the scale, the second red light, are simply too rich. Proper closed loop operation will cycle back and forth from green to orange around the center of the display.

It is simply the best way to evaluate the tune of your motorcycle and saves valuable dyno time. Mounted permanently. Waterproof.

Compatible with OEM narrowband sensors. Can be supplied with new high temperature Bosch narrowband sensors. Far right photo shows gauge in dim light conditions at maximum power setting.

New SS Titanium Finish

In our continuing effort to offer you the best product we have a new SS Titanium finish that we have been testing for a year. We now have four finishes to choose from: Chrome, Silver Ceramic, Black Ceramic, and SS Titanium Ceramic.

Chrome is a no-brainer. It's a shiny, reflective, hard surface that can be covered by heat shields and is resistant to scratching. Black is the finish when you want black...It's that simple. Silver Ceramic is a popular coating that is well known to be durable and to hold the heat in the pipe.

The new SS Titanium finish is a dark semi-gloss metallic grey that will not show dirt, stains, or marks as easily as do the other ceramic finishes. It is the lowest maintenance of the "coatings". Sportster Pro Stock Challenge shown.

Note: Ceramic finishes on LSR Exhaust systems are taken to the coaters every three weeks. Payment for all ceramic finishes is made at the time we delivery the parts to the coater as at that point the process is irreversible and very expensive. Batches from the coaters are finished every two to three weeks. In short, if you order a ceramic finish i.e. Black, Silver, or SS Titanium payment is effected before shipment and is non-refundable.

Customers

Customer writes: "First, I have had your LSR 2-1 C w/Turnout on my 98 FLSTS for about 4 years and 32,000 miles. It looks great, sounds great, and of course, performs great.

Second, the mechanic that works on my bike also drag races a Shovelhead powered FL. He only ran Thunderheader until he rode my bike and did some research. Steve had you guys make him a 2-1 and set new records in his class.

Third, my brother-n-law has a '05 EFI Road King. He was just dying to put some Rinehart true duals on it. I talked him into waiting until he looked at and listened to a lot of RKs before buying. During the year he did this I kept asking what he wanted out of the new exhaust. Finally, he admitted sound and performance. He kept saying I love the sound of your bike and it is fast as hell. So, I suggested the LSR 2-1 C Slash Cut longer pipe. We installed your exhaust, a PCIII usb, and a K&N filter with stock a/c cover and changed the backing plate. His road king has torque and runs like a scalded dog. We both can out run 95" kits installed at the HD dealers.

I provided the background to say this. My B'law took his RK to the HD dealer for the 15k maintenance service. The mechanics went nuts over the exhaust and what it does for the performance. They asked all kinds of questions. They had never heard of your firm or the exhausts. Now comes the kicker and it makes me a little sad (because I have enjoyed having an exhaust that out performs the crap the HD dealers sell). The mechanics conclusion. They are going to take off that HD exhaust crap (their words) and get RB Racing exhausts. Now the word will spread around Memphis and RB Racing exhausts will be everywhere.

It was good while it lasted - having the performance edge over others.

Your exhaust system has been great on my bike for 4 years and 32k miles. Thanks for a great product. I can't imagine having any other brand of exhaust!

PS. Sure wish you would make a LSR 2-1 for Victory Jackpot or 8 ball. The only reason I haven't purchased one in the last two years is because you said you would NOT make a Victory exhaust.

Later…Cliff"

Shovel FL Bagger LSR2-1 Systems

Ever since the price on Shovels went up from $3,000.00 to $10,000.00 or even past $15,000.00, Shovel owners have been asking us to build FL series LSR 2-1 systems. Pictured is is a 00-1108 LSR 2-1, C Style, Slash Cut +5", 1 3/4" system in Silver Ceramic. This design fits both solid and rubber mount models. As for the brackets, you get to do these yourself. On rubber mounted models this will mean coming off the transmission and on the solid mount models off the frame.

We heliarc on a slotted bracket hidden on the back side of the exhaust. The pipe is two piece with the front pipe slipping for ease of install and to account for variances in deck heights. You do not put a clamp on the slip joint as it is a slip joint and not meant to be crushed by some chromed clamp and an over-zealous 3/8" ratchet. Assemble the slip with Permatex 598B if you so choose. 00-1108 in Silver Ceramic pictured.

Customer writes "Pictured is the 00-1108 in silver ceramic I installed on my 1983 FLHTC, which is a Shovelhead (obviously) rubber-mount, 5 speed, bagger with footboards. Rob wanted me to mention if I thought anything was wrong with the pipe. The only trouble I encountered was with the coating being a little thick above the mounting flange so it was a bit tight getting it into the back head. I got that sorted out though. This is without a doubt the nicest looking exhaust system I have ever seen. All the welds are perfect, the front pipe slipped into the rear nicely clearing the footboard and nose cone and the silver ceramic coating is flawless. I have 3 Mechanic Licences and two Harleys so hopefully I can do my bit to educate the masses on exhaust performance technology and then maybe they will all shit-can their 2 into 2 drag pipes and put a true performance item like this RB racing LSR 2 into 1 pipe on their sleds. Keep up the fine work."

Black Ceramic

In 27 years we have tried all sorts of black finishes: Kal Gard, VHT, Techline, and others. We also in the mid 1980's we even tried porcelain for awhile. It chipped and the heat distorted the parts. Most finishes will not survive over a long period unless they have a base coat to cushion rock strikes and scratches. The surface has to be perfectly prepared and most applications can fail if run too soon at elevated temperatures as they are typically baked at 450 to 500 deg F whereas the cure takes place at around 750 deg F. Lower temperatures will not cure the resins and they will fail once the bike is run. To get around this dilemma we have found the best solution is a 2500 Deg F Ceramic cushion base coat and a secondary Black Semi-Gloss finish on top of this.

Black Ceramic finishes are therefore the most expensive as they involve a triple process. First the parts are polished to remove any tooling marks. Then the parts are zirconia media blasted to prepare the surface. The parts are base coated with a 2500 Deg F ceramic and baked. After this they are sprayed with an ultra high temperature black and baked a second time. The 2500 Deg F base or cushion coat adheres to the metal very well and provides insulation and corrosion protection. The black is a thinner coat and provides the smooth, dark black, finish we require.

Satin finishes scuff too easily so we do not use them.

The Semi-Gloss black finish can be cleaned with soap and water and scuff marks can be removed with Mother's Aluminum and Magnesium Polish.

Ease of Installation

All LSR 2-1's are constructed in a number of fashions depending on the style of pipe and the model they go on: On rigid mount applications like Softails and most Shovelheads we use a"two-piece" design for "B" and "C" styles. The rear primary tube, the collector, and the tail section are welded into one assembly, while the front primary is a separate piece that slides into a precision "upset" slip joint that is permanently welded into the collector right next to the rear primary tube. This two-piece design makes the pipe supremely easy to install and offers three additional benefits: (1) We get better chroming on the front tube; (2) The slip allows for minor variations in exhaust port heights; (3) The slip joint allows a tension-free final positioning of both the head pipes as well as the tail section in relation to the mounting bracket, thus reducing stress/vibration fractures. There is no cussing when you install an LSR 2-1!

Brackets

As they say. So simple a.....

Shovelheads (All): You get to fake your own bracket. We used to make about a dozen variations on these but so much time has passed we trashed all but three of our fixtures and now offer "B" and "C" style parts in Turn Out, Slash Cut and Slash Cut +5" as well as Pro Stock for all models including the FL Dressers. We saved a bunch of parts for about 12 years and almost threw them out three or four times, but with increasing values in the Hog futures market we sold out the last items and made a completely new run of parts with new improvements.

Bonneville Proven

LSR stands for Land Speed Record and that means only one place...The Bonneville Salt Flats, the Great White Dyno. We have the only gas powered street legal bikes over 200 mph and we're damn proud of it. RB Racing doesn't race typewriters, we race motorcycles and when someone says they get a 70% gain from their system, ask them for their 200mph Bonneville Records or any records for that matter. Hell, if we raced typewriters it sure would be a lot easier, not to mention cheaper.

We place an LSR tag on each exhaust system we make so they can be easily identified. Every now and then over the last twenty plus years someone decides to copy one of our designs, usually because some customer is very happy and he "stirs up the pond". They copy the general look but not the features that make them work. The tags eliminate any question about whether it's an RB Racing design or not and allows people admiring your bike to know the pipe's origin.

The tags have proven to be very popular and have been used since 1992. Every now and then someone asks us to not place the tag on their system to which we answer..."send us an affidavit certifying that you have removed all manufacturer logos from your tires, engraved Performance Machine logos from your brakes, Mikuni or S&S identifications from your castings, Harley identifications from your gas tank, Nike logos from your tennis shoes etc. and we'll consider it". The last guy we let talk us out of this was getting his bike in Hot Bike magazine and said he'd give us "credit" for a one off pipe we designed. When the magazine appeared on the newsstand all we saw was "computer designed pipe by Sands Racing". That was the end of that.

Crystal Balls and Astrology

You win some, you lose some. Mostly we win. Like we always say it always depends on the tuner. This is not a parts changing business and we all know it's easiest to just change pipes and see what happens, but that's not science. The LSR 2-1 pipes, themselves, do not represent a "limit" as long as you choose the right pipe for your application. The rest of the equation is getting the parts and tuning to work together.

Just put the damn thing on the road, open her up, and see what she'll do. Let the metal scream.

New Cloisonne Tags

Like in the adage "The relentless search for perfection" we have upgraded the logos we put on our LSR Exhaust Systems. Previous tags were stamped and formed aluminum with silkscreened details. The new cloisonne tags are a precision die struck brass, nickel plated, with powdered glass fired in an oven then polished to a jewelry finish. These are direct replacements for our older tags and are available for US $20.00 via US Global Express (foreign) or Priority Mail (domestic US). They come with black headed rivets and are riveted in place with a light coat of high temperature silicone (Permatex 598B) behind the tag.

O-Sensor Port Standard

All RB Racing LSR exhaust systems come standard with a machined and heliarced oxygen sensor boss just below your front exhaust port. This port is designed to accept and oxygen sensor (18mm x 1.5mm) which will allow you to use our RSR Air/Fuel Ratio Meter to tune and monitor in real-time your air/fuel ratio.

Three degrees of freedom. Supplied with longer bolts for triple clamp or headlight mounting. Stainless bolts. Or get creative and roll your own. Could be as simple as one hole or a flat strap with two holes. If you want one of these they are $24.95. Part Number 06-1024. For single or dual O2 meters.

Single O2 meter for Carb models

For the past 20 years we have been putting O-Sensor ports in the front primary tube. It is the only way to set your carburetion for optimum performance and economy. Our RSR Air Fuel Ratio gauges are completely waterproof and Harley proof. Billet construction and dead accurate. Saves dyno expense. If you just can't stay away from Dynos then tune with this first in the real world, then go to the dyno.