LSR 2-1 Confederates
There's a Confederate Hellcat G1 in the UK with one of our 00-1194 Slash Cut systems on it. A very clean bike with Dymag wheels and ISR calipers. Certainly a rare duck in the Harley world. They actually sold a fair number of these a long time ago but have since digressed into sculptural, expensive, barely functional toys for the uber rich.
Customer writes: "I bought
the exhaust from you guy a couple years ago and never told you how well
it fit and performs. Well, it fit perfect and performs outstanding.
Thanks. Keep the rubber side down. Matthew." 00-1193 LSR 2-1.
There's new Confederates these days, but there are around 500 or so of the earlier ones with various S&S/TP/or Merch motors. RB Racing borrowed a Confederate to design a turbo system for Confederate but economics at Confederate caught up with that project.
We offer a "C Style" LSR 2-1 in either a Turn Out or a Slash Cut design. Three finishes are available: Chrome, Silver Ceramic or Black Ceramic.
We have LSR 2-1 pipes for these in the "C Style" in either turn out or slash cut designs. Pictured above is a 00-1194 Slash Cut in chrome. We only build these with 2" primaries as with the larger motors the 1 3/4" designs originally supplied don't do much to help the performance.
We also have LSR 2-1 Pro Stock designs for these bikes. As to which is "better"...well that depends. Generally you're safer with the LSR 2-1 because the internal baffle provides a bit of backpressure while not holding back peak hp. The LSR 2-1 Pro Stock design is more race oriented and has a much higher throughput with a smoother internal design...but it will be more sensitive to cams and works best with high compression larger motors.
As for the turbos: read our turbo section. You just don't bolt a 250 or 350hp turbo on a high compression motor. Then again, the Confederate has a nice final chain drive with an outboard support bearing. A lower compression forged piston and special gaskets could give you the horsepower you are looking for.
Screaming Eagle Super Tuner...SEST (discontinued)
"SEST" or Greek for the worst written instruction manual we've ever seen. We defy you to figure out how to get various charts and graphs to open and how to get to the advanced versus basic tuning options. We suggest you look around the internet as the manual is of little help.
A few years ago we bought one of these to see what was involved. If you can figure out the software navigation issues and install a map that somewhat matches your bike, you simply ride around, observe the RSR Air Fuel Ratio Meter display and make edits. The tuning is fairly straight forward. Without the Dual Gauge we don't know how you would do it. We just ride.
Harley had to recall these after being fined. They are no longer available.
System Approach to Tuning
1. LSR 2-1 Exhaust... Proven performance gains.
2. RSR Air Fuel Ratio Gauge...Observe in the real world. Dynos are great but we don't ride them.
3. TTS MasterTune Software... Make adjustments based on observations
Steve Cole's TTS MasterTune
Before the Screaming Eagle Super Tuner (SEST)
there was the SERT or Screaming Eagle Race Tuner. Acronyms, what would
we do without them? Steve Cole
was the guy behind the SERT until Harley decided to go with another
contractor. Money. It's always about the money. Since Steve designed
the original stuff, this new stuff i.e. TTS MasterTune is easier
to use and has one benefit that the "SEST" does not have...You have the
ability to save and restore your original calibration. In addition with
the Green Analog Interface Model you can log up to four analog channels
like Wideband Sensors.
We prefer software solutions to tuning late model efi Harleys and not use any add-on boxes or to replace the entire system with some "self-tuning", throttle-angle based, wide band controller. There are simply too many problems technical-wise with wide band sensors...Stuff they do not tell you about like pressure and temperature compensation issues and sensor latency. You are better off with the OEM O2 sensors. You won't believe this but that's your problem.
One point no one is going to tell you is that Harley has hidden tables that will richen up your injectors if you hold the bike under load, like on a dyno or wide open throttle for any amount of time beyond "x". They don't want you to fool with this. Guess what happens to those people who tune under full load.
both the SEST and the TTS Master Tune. Both work about the same with both based on VE Tables. The
TTS MasterTune is a more friendly system and has more features.
Tuning cables must be purchased separately. Three versions are
available: Specify Cable Number when ordering.
(1) Part # 2000014: 4 Pin J1850 (older bikes). $42.50 list price.
Part # 2000011: CAN 6 Pin Cable Kit (newest bikes). $42.50 list price.
Part # 2000014A: 2014 Touring models Only. CAN 6 Pin (have different pin allocations). $42.50 list price.
The Total Cost for a single bike TTS Master Tune (Blue) is $445.00 (tuner no cable). The Total Cost for a TTS Master Tune (Blue) Two Bike Programmer is $645.00 (Tuner no cable).
The Total Cost for a single bike TTS Master Tune (Green) is $595.00 (tuner no cable).
A PDF Tuner Guide explains the operation of the TTS software.
the late 70's, all through the 1980's and into the mid 1990's we used
to spend about 5 months out of every year tuning things. No time for
that anymore. It's best that you tune your own bike...add up the hours
and write yourself a hot check. Or just pay somebody. We use a Supeflow CycleDyn Dyno and we ride in the real world.
Whenever you look at an exhaust and see it caked in black soot you know the bike is not running or tuned correctly. Back in the mid 1980's we did a carburetor development program for Keihin Corporation for their 41mm CR Race carbs on both Shovelheads and the new Evolution motors. When we were finished the bikes got 56 mpg cruising and 46 mpg if you ran them harder...and after 500 mile tests the pipes were perfectly clean inside and the exhaust ports were dead clean.
If you take the exhaust
system off a modern Closed Loop BMW, as we have, you will find them
dead clean or whitish inside. Harleys should be the same.
We always ask what mileage
people get from their "tuned" or modified Harleys after "Dyno
tuning"....The universal answer is 37 mpg or less. If they don't know,
we ask them if they have to gas at 100 miles. Most do.
Once a customer bought an exhaust from us and took his bike to two different dynos in search of the "117 Hp" he was looking for for his 103...He got 110Hp. After pissing and moaning we told the guy to give us our exhaust back and we found it caked in soot. So much for tuners and their tail pipe sniffers that see lean reversions...They just kept adding fuel. You tell the customer to put on our RSR Air Fuel Gauge to monitor the mixtures F/R in the real world...No, they want a "Dyno Tune". We have dynos...we know what they do and can't do.
Logic plays no part in people and their toys. EFI is complex...put in larger injectors and all of your warm up, synchronous and asynchronous fueling is out the window, Brave new world.No soot.
Pictured above is the exhaust port from a 2017 Dyna Low Rider S with about 100 miles on it. No soot. Delphi engineers seem to have done a very good job. Looks like the port you would see on a BMW. Now, when your "Tuner" gets finished with it, it will most likely be full of soot. Logic plays no part in people and their toys. EFI is complex...put in different cams, change air cleaners, port the heads and all this goes out the window. Brave new world.
Fuel Injection..A Reality Check
OEM HarleyDelphi Injectors
come in various ratings: 3.91 grams/second; 4.35 grams/second; 4.89
grams per second (CVO); and 6.00 grams per second. These ratings are
static i.e. shorted open. Pulsed static is about 90% of this i.e. what
you could expect if you maxed them out in your ecu calibration
software. If you hold them to an 85% duty cycle they, respectively,
offer the following horsepower potentials: 105 hp; 117 hp; 131 hp and
161 hp. Now, you can squeeze more out of them by going past 85%, but
this is the point where they are still controllable.
We get calls from people
building wazoo big engines and they are still running the stock
injectors. We suggest you get the right injectors for your engine
building projects. We offer a several calculators for those messing
with efi systems. Fuel Injector Calculator Professional Injector Pulsewidth Calculator.
If you have a late model Harley with a Fly-By-Wire throttle you do not need an add-on gizmo. We suggest you get Steve Cole's TTS Master Tune software described above. When purchased with RB Racing exhausts and turbocharger systems we offer a $50.00 discount i.e. $375.00 v $425.00 list. TTS MasterTune allows you to adjust your electronic throttle without the expense of additional add-on devices as well as your fueling and everything else in the Delphi ECU.
RSR Air Fuel Ratio Gauges...Real World Tuning
The Mother of all gauges! Not a gauge, but a precision tool that will tell you exactly what your engine is doing in real-time. Gives you instantaneous read-outs of air/fuel ratios from 17:1 to 10.5:1 and indicates maximum power ratios. Four color display is easily read in direct sunlight and automatically dims at night. Waterproof, billet aluminum construction. Your significant other will cheat on you but this gauge will never lie! It won't keep you warm at night, but a perfectly running engine will look and sound the same when you wake up next to it the morning after.
Single RSR O2 Gauge: Reads the front cylinder in non-efi models. It is simply the best way to evaluate the tune of your motorcycle and saves expensive and often inaccurate dyno time. Real world tuning while you ride...Observe and then make adjustments. Mounted permanently. Waterproof.
Mounts....Roll Your Own or Buy One
The gauges have a center back mount 5/16" x 18 x 1/2" Stainless Socket Head Cap Screw and stainless lock washer. You can fab your own bracket for this or use the 06-1025 hard anodized Billet Mount System for either 1.00" or 1.25" handlebars $49.95. Optional is the 06-1024 two piece laser cut 304 Stainless Steel mounting tabs for either near handlebar clamp or up the handlebar mounting: $9.95.
Since we have been doing closed loop fuel injection systems
for Harleys for more than 30 years and have been putting O-Sensor Ports
in our exhausts for the same amount of time, we have both single and dual O2 ports for our full range of exhausts. Our RSR Air Fuel Ratio Gauge is the best investment you can make for monitoring and optimizing your engine tune.
LSR 2-1 exhausts come standard with one or two O2 ports (Sequential EFI models)...18mm or 12.5mm. O2
or Lambda sensors
are a necessity for either carbureted or non closed loop efi
(Weber Marelli and Early Delphi) Harleys. We should know, as we have a
lot of experience
with them and have been doing Closed Loop EFI systems since 1989.
The Single and Dual gauges ship with six feet of MIL-W-22759/32 wire. The first 24" is Raychem DR-25 sealed on both ends. If you wish to have a connector at the 24" point there is a $50.00 charge to install either six position (single gauge) or eight position male/female Deutsch DTM connectors with Raychem DR-25 sleeving.
The gauge is housed in a hard anodized round enclosure in a standard 2" format with a 2.250" bezel, center back mount, with a 5/16" x 18 stainless socket head cap screw. The gauge will show fuel ratios from 17:1 to 12.0:1 (or richer). The gauge is visible in daylight and automatically dims for nighttime operation. Only a single L.E.D. illuminates.
Very easy to interpret at a glance.
Scale is, left to right, lean to rich: three greens, three yellows, two
orange and two red l.e.d.s. You simply cannot "read" spooling digital
The white arrow indicates the maximum power mixture, the second orange light, which is 13.2:1. Transitory enrichments should not, if the engine is warm (>200F Oil temp), go past the first red light. Readings at the far right side of the scale, the second red light, are simply too rich. Proper closed loop operation will cycle back and forth from green to orange around the center of the display.
It is simply the best way to evaluate the tune of your motorcycle and saves valuable dyno time. Mounted permanently. Waterproof.
Whether your bike is carb
or efi this is the best way to tune...By riding and observing, not on a
static dyno. Dynos are not exactly real world in terms of loads,
airflow, or transitionals, and even if you had a million dollar AC
Transient dyno room, you would still have to do real world testing. The
gauges are dead accurate and are millisecond fast responding which
makes it very simple to
interpret or remember, even at a glance, while you are dodging cars
watching for cops. We have a Superflow CycleDyn which gives a better real world correlation than other dynamometers but we still evaluate air fuel ratios when riding.
Anyone who tells you
optimizing tuning is easy is full of shit. Engineers at Ford say they
spend two years just perfecting tip-in or initial throttle openings.
Ride, observe,..then change or edit. Real world.
Pretty soon Harleys will all be watercooled then you really won't be able to tell the difference between Milwaukee and Hammatsu. "The Man" will be sniffing your butt and planting microchips and gps modules up your ass so they can mail you a speeding ticket and keep track of your movements. They already have data recorders on your car so they know what you were doing when the biggie happened. Brave new world. Monitor your engine to get the most out of it before the NSA monitors your tail pipe.
Customer writes: "When the gauge arrived I knew it would be of a very high quality, it has far surpassed my expectations. I was very eager to get this installed and take a look at my tune. Amazing to see how little adjustments on the carb effect the AFR. As a result of this gauge, I have dropped one size on the low speed jet, raised the clip on notch and confirmed the main jet on my Mik48. Thank you, I really like this gauge. Ed"
Do Not Use OEM Gaskets
LSR 2-1 Exhaust Systems must use our CNC Machined Billet Gaskets (part number 00-1000) and our close tolerance aircraft exhaust nuts (part number 00-1001). The above OEM woven gasket will not work with our machined Turbo Venturis. Four special aircraft exhaust nuts come with the system but you must order four extra ones for $3.00 as they are easily dropped and the OEM 5/16" x 24 hex nuts will not "turn" on our machined Turbo Venturis.
We also offer machined from billet exhaust flanges. If you have a 2004 or later bike it will probably have the thicker exhaust flanges which are not compatible with our Turbo Venturis. Early style OEM Evo chrome die cast flanges and clips or our billet parts are called for. Our Chrome Billet Flanges and clips are $29.95 per set and are stronger than any oem part.
We have had several instances where people encounter "difficulties". Invariably, it is traced to someone not using our billet gaskets. The billet gaskets insure proper fit of the LSR 2-1 system and are designed to work with our Turbo Venturis to increase exhaust flow.
LSR 2-1's Bonneville,Dyno &Track Proven
If you want to make power on a multi-cylinder engine you have to use a collector system. Whether it's a V-Twin or a V-8 it's the same, and no less an authority than the famed engine builder Smokey Yunick will tell you that. Not using free exhaust energy to help your engine breathe is downright criminal. No matter what the conventional wisdom is, staggered duals on a Harley will not make more power. You simply cannot escape the fact that a properly designed 2-1 will give you more usable torque where you need it, in the 2000 to 4000 rpm range, which means less downshifts and less rpm to get the job done.
A set of short staggered duals at peak rpm can be made to produce good power but they will be dead on their ass until they get there, whereas an engine developed around an LSR 2-1 exhaust can be made to perform from the bottom up with no dips in the torque band! If you don't believe this then why is it always that the top Pro Stock bikes, cars etc. end up running collectors systems? Damn right they work! If you don't think torque between shifts or when you roll the throttle on, then buy those long sewer pipes or some short curly drag pipes you saw on the Discovery Channel.
Check out our new Exhaust Technology Section for information on how all this works.
New Cloisonne Tags
Like in the adage "The relentless search for perfection" we have upgraded the logos we put on our LSR Exhaust Systems. Previous tags were stamped and formed aluminum with silk screened details. The new cloisonne tags are a precision die struck brass, nickel plated, with powdered glass fired in an oven then polished to a jewelry finish. These are direct replacements for our older tags and are available for US $25.00 postpaid via US Global Express (foreign) or Priority Mail (domestic US). They come with black headed rivets and are riveted in place with a light coat of high temperature silicone (Permatex 598B) behind the tag.
Our testing has shown that the Harley V-Twin is extremely sensitive to back pressure which is why 2-1's that use small or restrictive collectors don't breathe well, and why restrictive baffles shut the motor down. Disc type baffles are good for spark arrestors on dirt bikes but they have no place on a big inch V-Twin. You don't make power by adding restrictions to your exhaust system whether it's a bunch of stainless discs or some damn piece of aluminum billet machined into a Harley butt plug! Ever wonder why they had to put a hole up the center of the discs? Well, one reason was the discs are so damn restrictive you have to have several pounds of them to get enough flow through their waffle shaped passages. Good mufflers, but they have nothing to do with performance and they sure as hell do not create vacuum as has been claimed. When you get confused by all the bullshit simply ask the following question.." Do they run them in NASCAR or in Formula One?". Nope, they run straight pipe collector systems without any stupid discs or aluminum butt plugs.It's always funny how when the money is on the line, all the little things like discs, billet caps, anti-reversion flaps, reverse megaphones and other such nonsense somehow don't make the field.
All RB Racing LSR Exhaust Systems feature our "new" (we've been quietly doing it since 1985!) CNC machined Turbo Venturis that actually "scavenge" to help your motor breathe. Machined from billet, these allow full 2" flow and eliminate the phony restrictions that other 1 3/4" to 2 1/4" pipes have at your exhaust port. We supply special close tolerance aircraft nuts for your exhaust studs because our machined venturis are too wide for a standard hex nut.
Our CNC machined Turbo Venturis are not compatible with the "bowl-shaped" late model OEM exhaust port gaskets or early style "flat" gaskets for the LSR Exhaust Systems to both fit and seal properly. The narrow machined flat face of the Turbo Venturi must seat against a flat surface, not the bowl-shaped late model gaskets. Using the LSR Exhausts in combination with the wrong gasket will cause misalignment, inability to tighten the provided close tolerance aircraft nuts, and will force the bowl-shaped gasket into the exhaust port.
Mandatory for a nominal charge of $9.95 are a pair of our LSR CNC machined gaskets which mate perfectly with our Turbo Venturis. These are proven in over 16 years of use on our race and turbo applications...the only gaskets that will stay in a turbo bike for 25,000 miles! These gaskets prevent any gasket "creep" into the exhaust flow and are one more thing that will give you "an edge" on the competition. We always wondered why people would port their heads, put in bigger valves and then squish the gaskets into their exhaust ports. We bet you never paid attention to what was going inside your exhaust ports for one very simple reason...you can't see what's going on in there once the pipe is tightened! The LSR CNC machined gaskets also insure perfect alignment of the exhaust system. Most fitment and alignment problems are traced to using either the wrong type of gasket or using old gaskets that have taken a "set". We've always used these on our race applications and it's time everyone who's concerned about performance should do the same.
All LSR 2 into 1 exhausts require special close tolerance aircraft nuts to bolt the LSR Turbo Venturis to the exhaust port. Standard 5/16" x 24 hex nuts will not fit. Each exhaust comes with the required four nuts. It is recommended that you order an extra set (4) of these nuts, part number 00-1001, when you order your exhaust.
STD Cylinder Heads
We make special flanges for STD heads that match the rectangular bolt pattern that STD machines. If you order a RB Racing LSR 2-1 Exhaust you can order these flanges which have been designed to fit our standard turbo venturis. RB Racing Part Number 00-1003. Sold per pair $29.95. When you order a RB Racing LSR 2-1 Exhaust system we either polish and chrome these or bead blast and ceramic coat them.
RB Racing LSR 2-1 exhaust systems use either one or two slip joints depending on the model. We suggest you put a coating of Permatex 598B ULTRA BLACK in the slip joint. None of our slip joints use any clamps because then they wouldn't be slip joints anymore. The inner pipe gets hotter that the outer pipe and they grow into each other and form a tight seal. The 598B is a non hardening gasket material and will prevent any leakage from condensation that forms in the pipe and, with the usual carbon particles, will actually seal better over time. It also makes the pipes easy to take apart later on. Get a tube before you install your RB racing exhaust system.
All RB Racing LSR exhaust systems come standard with a machined and heliarced oxygen sensor boss just below your front exhaust port. This port is designed to accept and oxygen sensor (18mm x 1.5mm) which will allow you to use our RSR Air/Fuel Ratio Meter to tune and monitor in real-time your air/fuel ratio.
Confederate: We provide a small angular bracket that attaches to the rear of a slotted bracket on our exhaust and then attaches to your frame.
General LSR 2-1 Installation Sequence
1. Remove the OEM exhaust and exhaust bracketry. If the bike has floorboards remove the right floorboard.
2. Pry the OEM exhaust gaskets out of the exhaust ports. We use billet gaskets instead.
3. Install the frame or transmission bracket provided. Use Blue Loctite on the mounting bolt threads into the transmission. Lockwashers under the bolt heads on the transmission mount. If through-bolt like on early rigid Sportsters or Shovels use lockwashers under the hex nuts.
4. Front and Rear primary
tubes: Install billet flanges and clips. Install front pipe loosely
with billet gasket and nuts provided. Loosely affix the front heat
shield to the pipe as you might not be able to install the shield later
with the rear pipe in place. We use 1/4 drive ratchet plus extensions
and 3/8" socket and a 3/8" wobble for the exhaust stud nuts.
5. If the rear pipe has a
slip joint (rubber mounted C Style) slip the rear pipe into the tail
section. You may use Permatex ULTRA BLACK.
6. Begin slip of tail section/rear pipe into the front exhaust slip joint (You may use Permatex ULTRA BLACK) and work the rear exhaust and billet gasket into the exhaust port. Loosely affix exhaust stud nuts provided. We use 1/4 drive ratchet plus extensions and 3/8" socket.
7. Slide 5/16" x 18 bolt(s) into slotted bracket on back of exhaust and thread these through the mounting braket. Loosely affix with lock washer(s) and hex nuts provided. Some exhausts may require a spacer (provided) between the exhast slotted bracket and frame/transmission bracket.
8. Gently tighted up all fasteners and nuts. Nothing can be in tension. You may use a rubber mallet to seat the slip joint(s).
9. Install remaining heat
shields and tighten front heat shield (5/16" Nut driver). Completely
wipe the pipe and shields down with a clean cloth to prevent grease and
oil stains from being baked on.
10. Run bike briefly in place. Let it cool down and retighten fasteners. Reinstall the right floorboard with hardware provided.
11. If ceramic finishes it is wise to go through several heat cycles. On modern efi closed loop systems they go into closed loop within minutes. Let bike idle for a few minutes then shut it down to let it cool. Several sessions of this will cure the resins as they are only oven-fired to 400F. Exhaust temperatures are >1000F.
12. Double check all
fasteners and ride the bike. Check your work afterwards. You bought a
Harley so you are already showing signs of dementia.
Pictured above is a 00-1193 Turn Out, 2" Style C. Customer also ordered a RSR Air Fuel Gauge. Freedom of expression...do it while you can before someone decides to stick their nose in your business.
New Ceramic Black Finish...."Here Come Da Judge"
Even The Judge has to cover territory quickly, especially in a state as large as Texas. Pictured is a ceramic black 00-1194 LSR 2-1, C Style with 2" primaries. Growing part of the Confederate Air Force.
We have a lot more people looking for durable black finishes and we think we have the best finishes on the market. In the late 70's and early 80's we tried all sorts of coatings and paints and even used porcelain on some of our products in the late 1980's. The newer ceramic finishes are tougher and we use both polished silver and semi-gloss black to complement our usual chrome offerings. The newest black finish is a dual coat process that gives additional protection against scratches and nicks, providing two barriers against corrosion.
Newer "Turbo" Black and SS Titanium Ceramic Finishes
We have a lot more people looking for durable ceramic finishes and we think we have the best finishes on the market. In the late 70's and early 80's we tried all sorts of coatings and paints and even used porcelain on some of our products in the late 1980's. The newer ceramic finishes are tougher and we use both Polished Silver, Semi-Gloss Black, and SS Titanium to complement our usual chrome offerings. The newest "Turbo" Black and SS Titanium finishes are a dual coat process that gives additional protection against scratches and nicks, providing two barriers against corrosion.
In 27 years we have tried all sorts of black finishes: Kal Gard, VHT, Techline, and others. We also in the mid 1980's we even tried porcelain for awhile. It chipped and the heat distorted the parts. Most finishes will not survive over a long period unless they have a base coat to cushion rock strikes and scratches. The surface has to be perfectly prepared and most applications can fail if run too soon at elevated temperatures as they are typically baked at 450 to 500 deg F whereas the cure takes place at around 750 deg F. Lower temperatures will not cure the resins and they will fail once the bike is run. To get around this dilemma we have found the best solution is a 2500 Deg F Ceramic cushion base coat and a secondary Black Semi-Gloss finish on top of this.
"Turbo" Black Ceramic finish is therefore the most expensive
as they involve a triple process. First the parts are polished to
remove any tooling marks.Then the parts are zirconia media blasted to
prepare the surface. Then parts are cleaned. The parts are base coated
with a silver ceramic base coat and baked.
Then the parts are sprayed with a second ultra high temperature coating and baked a second time. The 2500 Deg F base or cushion coat adheres to the metal very well and provides insulation and corrosion protection. The black is a thinner coat and provides the smooth, dark black, finish we require.
Satin finishes scuff too easily so we do not use them. The old satin finish is shown above. We are refinishing the pipe for the customer with the new finish..
The Semi-Gloss black finish can be cleaned with soap and water and scuff marks can be removed with Mother's Aluminum and Magnesium Polish.
Funny Story: Seven years after we sold this system the second owner calls us up and wants the pipe recoated for "free". We explained the pipe was sold seven years earlier to the original purchaser and we do not recoat things for free. After much screaming and yelling the new owner wanted the above picture of "his bike" removed from our website...Not a chance. As we remember the original owner was very happy and sent us this picture....Guess we'll just leave it where it is. You meet the nicest people.
Dual O2 Sensor Systems / RSR Air Fuel Gauges
Since we have been doing closed loop fuel injection systems for Harleys for more than 15 years and have been putting O-Sensor Ports in our exhausts for the same amount of time, we have dual O2 ports for the 06 models for our full range of exhausts. Our RSR Air Fuel Ratio Gauge is the best investment you can make for these.
All LSR 2-1 exhausts can be ordered with two O2 ports. Actually O2 sensors are a really neat item. We should know, as we have a lot of experience with them. Tuning strategies are different and there are a lot of things that can go awry if you forget about temperatures, pressures etc.
Pretty soon Harleys will all be watercooled then you really won't be able to tell the difference between Milwaukee and Hammatsu. "The Man" will be sniffing your butt and planting microchips and gps modules up your ass so they can mail you a speeding ticket and keep track of your movements. They already have data recorders on your car so they know what you were doing when the biggie happened. Brave new world.
800 Horsepower LSR 2-1 Slash Cut
We're not really sure what a 2-1 has to do with Top Fuel Nitro motors but when Carl Pelletier asked us to make a collector for his top fuel 175c.i. PRP motor we whipped up a 4" diameter collector and sent him the tooling. Take a Tour of what it takes to run a top fuel bike. Doug Vancil's hard running Top Fuel Harley sponsored by Vance and Hines has a 2-1 that looks like one of their Pro Pipes so when Carl asked us to build one we made sure the collector area wouldn't restrict each of the 400hp explosions that were coming from each cylinder. Carl qualified 8th out of 32 bikes at the final Las Vegas meet and ran in the sixes at over 200 mph so the 2-1 probably didn't hurt anything. His best speed is 214mph with the 2-1 so it didn't seen to hurt anything. Top Fuel is pure insanity and is addictive as Heroin for those involved. Like they say " Gasoline is for washing parts...Nitro is for Racing!".
These days people have all sorts of expectations. They want to be loved. They want to be admired. They don't want their chrome to turn colors. They want "numbers". They want assurances. They want guarantees, warranties, trial periods, and return policies. They don't want the part, they just want everything that goes with their household baggage. It's all part of keeping everything nice and tidy and "best". Fear of rejection. Fear of making any decision.
We just come in and make the best parts we can and that's all there is to it. The rest of the equation is too complicated. There are plenty of people who will assure you till hell freezes over. We don't have time for this.
For those of you who do not understand that 1450 Deg F of exhaust flame front will discolor chrome, don't order the parts, or just leave the bike on the trailer..or order the heat shields to cover up the underlying discoloration. Ceramic or chrome the pipes get really hot and heat shields provide an air gap to protect and hide things.... Melted tennis shoes, burned pants. Air is the perfect insulator.
It isn't the old days anymore. People with $35,000.00 toys roll up in the screaming fetal position. Joy used to be a basket case that you could get running. Brave new world.
The agony of decision making can drive a poor consumer insane..."What is the best?"...".."How does it compare?"..."What will I get, what will I gain?"..."When can I get it?"..."Should I get a Turn Out or a Slash Cut" pipe".."Will the chrome blue?"..."Can I talk to someone who has one?"..."How long have you been in business"...""I've never heard of you"... "How black is the black?"..."Why haven't I seen these before?"..."My bike is at the builder and he has to have the pipe by Friday or I lose my slot!"..."Is the silver as shiny as chrome?"..."I have a wazoo998 cam and billet rocker boxes and a 280 rear tire...will your pipe work?"
Right brain, left brain. Fear of rejection. Fear of being different. Social standing. It's all too much for most people to deal with.
Look at the pictures, take the Red Pill, and start your journey. It's that simple.
If you wish avoid any decision and stay right where you are, just take the Blue Pill. If the journey for truth and power excites your spirit, take the Red Pill.